Dr John the Chemist
What is “natural” Officially?
The official definition of natural according to the Australia Department of Health is “an unprocessed chemical occurring in a natural environment or a chemical occurring in a natural environment that is extracted without chemical change by manual, mechanical or gravitational means; or dissolution in water; or flotation or a process of heating for the sole purpose of removing uncombined water.”
Not as natural as you think.
Many personal care products claim to be natural or all natural, unfortunately not many of them are. By the official definition, most ingredients we consider as natural are more precisely “naturally derived” chemicals. Surprisingly, even things that we have always considered natural such as essential oils, glycerin, some vegetable oils, most waxes and hydrogenated oils would not pass the test. Even water would not pass this criterion as we must purify our water to ensure it is clean, bacteria free and compatible with our products. The cleansing process invariably changes its chemistry slightly. Castor oil, for example, is actually toxic to humans when cold pressed and must be treated to render it safe. This process deems it to be a chemical because its chemistry has changed. Another example would be zinc oxide used in sunscreens, often referred to as natural and certainly occurs in nature as the mineral zincite. The cleaning and purification process applied to zinc oxide changes its content slightly from its native ore so is deemed to be a chemical. The ACCC and TGA have been known to take action against the most egregious claims because the term “natural“ in most cases is technically misleading.
How do we tell a natural from a chemical ingredient?
Apart from the official definition, we often accept products as being natural because they are known traditionally or comply with our understanding of the term. As consumers we struggle at times with the huge amount of promotional material around our daily personal care and medicinal products. Most of us have an instinct for natural sounding names, unpronounceable long names that look like they have been made out of Lego bricks are probably synthetic chemicals and those that sound like they could have been a tree or a flower are natural. A nice way to think but not always correct. The dangerously sounding chemical dihydrogen monoxide might sound a lot better if we called it by its common name, water. Most vegetable oils are technically triglycerides but sound a lot more friendly if you call them Olive or Coconut.
What is meant by nature identical?
Another often used phrase is “nature identical”, these ingredients occur in nature but are actually synthesised. The two vitamins E and C, for example, can be extracted from wheat germ and citrus fruits or be fully synthesised. They are called nature identical because the most sophisticated analytical instrument would have difficulty to differentiate between synthesised and natural. The human body also has difficulty and processes the synthetic and natural versions in exactly the same way with exactly the same biochemical outcome.
How do promote natural products?
We recommend to our clients that they use the term “nature derived” or “naturally sourced” or something similar. The terminology should at least try to be as truthful as possible. Difficult when competitors are making larger claims but it’s honest and at the very least legal.