If you were to ask skincare consumers what the most important thing is when purchasing a skincare product, there’s a good chance that ‘it does what I need it to do’ would be the resounding response.
At Wild Child, we understand the importance of harnessing the power of active ingredients to create skincare products that deliver real, tangible results. In this article, we provide an in-depth look at what active ingredients are, their benefits and how we develop skincare formulations that stand up to their claims.
Whether you are a cosmeceutical company or a skincare brand looking to collaborate, this comprehensive guide will offer valuable insights into our skincare formulation and manufacturing process.
| Understanding Active Ingredients: Active ingredients in skincare, such as vitamins, hydroxy acids, peptides, botanical extracts, hyaluronic acid and retinoids are crucial for delivering targeted benefits like brightening, exfoliation, anti-ageing, hydration and acne treatment.Choosing and Combining Ingredients: Selecting the right active ingredients depends on factors like skin type, target demographic and product type. Wild Child’s expertise in R&D and formulation helps clients choose and combine ingredients for maximum efficacy.Quality Manufacturing: At Wild Child, our TGA-licensed facility ensures high-quality, effective skincare products. Our comprehensive support from concept to market makes us an ideal partner for developing premium skincare lines. |
What Is an Active Ingredient in Skincare?
Active ingredients in skincare are the powerhouse components that drive the primary benefits of a product. These ingredients are specifically chosen for their proven ability to address specific skin concerns, such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and dryness.
Unlike inactive ingredients, also known as excipient ingredients, which make up the bulk of a product’s formulation and serve to support the active ingredients, active ingredients are the key players that deliver visible and measurable results.
Active and Inactive Ingredients
Skincare products typically contain a combination of active and inactive ingredients.
Active ingredients: These are the ingredients responsible for the primary therapeutic effect of the skincare product. They have been clinically tested and are proven to improve certain skin conditions. For example, retinoids provide anti-ageing benefits, salicylic acid can help treat acne, and hyaluronic acid improves hydration.
Inactive ingredients: These ingredients support the formulation by providing texture, stability, preservation and sensory appeal. While they don’t directly impact the skin condition, they are essential to a skincare product’s usability and shelf life. Common inactive ingredients include water, emulsifiers, thickeners and preservatives.
While active and inactive ingredients each serve different purposes, both are needed to develop a well-rounded skincare formulation that is effective at targeting specific issues, while being pleasant to use and offering a lengthy shelf life. Possibly the greatest challenge of skincare formulation is determining the right selection, combination and concentration of ingredients.
The needs of different skincare users can be vastly different. While some people struggle with oily skin and acne breakouts, others may be more concerned by red, dry, dull or ageing skin.
Skincare product formulations should always be developed with the target consumer in mind, with ingredients chosen based on their ability to address specific skin concerns and their compatibility with other components of the formulation.
Active Ingredients in Skincare vs Sunscreen Products
So far, we’ve talked exclusively about skincare active ingredients and their role in product formulation. However at Wild Child, we also specialise in the development of sunscreens and it’s essential to differentiate between the terminology used in each.
In sunscreens, the term ‘active ingredients’ refers specifically to compounds that are responsible for filtering UV radiation. Examples of these ingredients include Zinc Oxide, Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDM), Octocrylene, and Homosalate. These sunscreen active ingredients are vital for the resulting product’s primary function – shielding skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays.
When skincare active ingredients are added to sunscreens for additional benefits to the skin’s health or appearance, we call them ‘hero ingredients’. Some typical hero ingredients might include hyaluronic acid for hydration, or niacinamide for its brightening effects. These ingredients don’t serve a UV filtering function but they play a crucial role in enhancing the product’s overall performance.
There’s a lot that goes into formulating sunscreen but overall, sunscreen ingredients fall into three broad categories: active ingredients for UV protection, inactive/excipient ingredients that act as the product’s base, and hero ingredients (skincare active ingredients) that provide additional skin benefits.
To avoid confusion, we’ll be discussing skincare active ingredients exclusively in this article.
Common Active Ingredients in Skincare: Benefits and Considerations for Formulation
Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives)
Retinoids are compounds derived from vitamin A, possessing structural or functional similarities to the vitamin. They can be either natural or synthetic. Renowned for their anti-ageing properties, they can stimulate collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin texture.
Retinoids are widely used in dermatological medications and cosmeceuticals for their positive effects on the skin and are often considered the ‘gold standard’ in skincare actives. Skincare products containing weaker forms of retinoids can be sold over the counter for treating mild acne and signs of ageing, while stronger formulations to address more severe skin conditions (like psoriasis) can only be sold by prescription.
Retinoids can irritate sensitive skin. For this reason, the concentration and formulation of skincare products containing retinoids require careful management.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
This powerful humectant can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a stellar hydrating ingredient. A naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan found in the body’s connective tissue, hyaluronic acid (HA) also provides anti-ageing benefits, reducing the appearance of fine lines. HA can also assist with wound healing and minimise facial redness.
While hyaluronic acid rarely triggers allergic reactions and is generally suitable for all skin types, its low molecular weight allows it to penetrate the skin more easily, potentially carrying other chemicals and bacteria more deeply into the skin. This can cause issues for users with already-compromised skin.
Salicylic acid (BHA)
A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its ability to exfoliate the skin and clear out pores (known as non-comedogenic), salicylic acid can be very effective at treating blackheads and acne.
It is gentle enough to use regularly, however, regular or prolonged use may cause irritation for people with dry or sensitive skin.
Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)
An antioxidant powerhouse, vitamin C can brighten the skin and even out skin tone. It can also improve wrinkles, reduce dark spots by blocking pigment production and control oil production to help manage acne. When used in combination with sunscreen, vitamin C can also enhance skin protection from harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays.
However, vitamin C can be prone to instability and susceptible to oxidation when used in combination with certain ingredients, requiring careful formulation to ensure the product will maintain its efficacy.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
This versatile ingredient offers a range of benefits, including reducing inflammation and improving skin elasticity. It can also enhance the skin barrier, providing relief from eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions.
Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types and works well in combination with other active ingredients.
Peptides
These short chains of amino acids are the building blocks of proteins in the skin. Peptides can help to stimulate collagen production and improve skin firmness, minimising fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides can also improve the skin’s barrier, ease inflammation and help to clear breakouts.
Peptides are generally well-tolerated but require precise formulation to ensure stability and efficacy.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid are effective exfoliants that help remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture. They can also help treat hyperpigmentation, melasma and sun damage, and can reduce acne.
AHA’s can be irritating to sensitive skin, so their concentration and pH need to be carefully controlled. AHA’s can also increase UV sensitivity.
Ceramides
Essential for maintaining the skin barrier, ceramides help retain moisture and protect the skin from environmental aggressors. They are especially beneficial for dry and sensitive skin.
Each active ingredient brings unique benefits to a skincare product, but it can also present specific formulation challenges. At Wild Child, we leverage our expertise in formulation science to create products that maximise the benefits of active ingredients while ensuring their stability and efficacy.
Incorporating Active Ingredients in Organic Skincare Formulations
As the demand for organic skincare products continues to grow, so has demand for organic active ingredients. At Wild Child, we are passionate about developing organic skincare products that are both effective and pleasant to use.
Selecting Organic Active Ingredients
When formulating organic skincare products, the selection of active ingredients is critical. As an Australian manufacturer, we’re lucky enough to have access to a range of unique ingredients and botanical extracts you won’t find anywhere else.
Some of the organic ingredients we use in our formulations include:
- Kakadu Plum: This hidden fruit from Australia’s Top End, Kakadu plum is packed with vitamin C and can help to reduce UV damage and pigmentation and assist in collagen preservation.
- Desert Quangdong: Able to survive in even the driest regions, Quangdong is a natural source of AHA’s, is high in vitamin C and assists in the reduction of fine lines.
- Muntries: Also known as the “emu apple”, muntries assists in natural hydration, collagen preservation and provides natural absorption support.
- Lemon Myrtle: Endemic to the subtropical rainforests of central and south-eastern Queensland, lemon myrtle can assist in cell regeneration. It can also be used as a skin-whitening ingredient.
The Manufacturing Process: Ensuring Quality and Efficacy
The manufacturing process is a critical aspect of creating effective skincare products.
At Wild Child, we adhere to stringent quality control measures and employ advanced technologies to ensure our products deliver on their promises. Here’s an overview of our manufacturing process:
1. Research and Development (R&D)
Our journey begins with extensive research and development. Our team of resident chemists and skincare experts continuously explore the latest advancements in skincare science to identify promising active ingredients and innovative formulation techniques.
2. Formulation
Once the ingredients are selected, our team works to determine the optimal concentration of active ingredients, ensuring compatibility with inactive ingredients to achieve the desired texture and sensory experience.
3. Stability Testing
Stability testing is a time-consuming but crucial step in the skincare manufacturing process. The formulation is exposed to various environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity and light, ensuring the product will remain stable and effective over its shelf life.
With more than 30 years of skincare and pharmaceutical formulation development experience, our expert chemists have an in-depth understanding of the stability and performance of commonly used ingredients. This expertise is crucial to the formulation process, minimising the likelihood of a formulation requiring adjustments.
4. Quality Control
Quality control is at the heart of our manufacturing process. Our state-of-the-art equipment applies precision measurement and controlled mixing techniques to ensure each batch is identical in consistency and quality.
5. Production
Once you are happy with the formulation, we move to the production phase. We always adhere to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) to ensure the highest standards of hygiene. Our manufacturing facility is also equipped with advanced machinery and technology to provide rapid, high-volume production. This allows you to get your skincare products to market sooner.
6. Packaging and Labelling
We pride ourselves on providing skincare manufacturing tailored to your unique requirements. You’ll have complete flexibility to choose the style and design of your packaging and labelling to suit your brand and consumer preferences.
We’ll take care of the bottling and labelling process, so you receive a beautifully packaged, market-ready product.
Why Partner with Wild Child for Your Skincare Products
Choosing the right partner for your skincare product development is crucial for ensuring the success of your brand. Here are some of the reasons why Wild Child is the ideal partner for your skincare products:
- In-house, fully customised cosmetic product development.
- More than 30 years of specialist expertise in skincare formulation.
- Comprehensive, end-to-end service and support.
- We’re a TGA-licenced facility with a proven track record of success.
If you’re looking for a skincare manufacturer, contact the team at Wild Child.